The Cook Islands - ten days in the Pacific
At the end of 2018 I decided to treat myself to a little bit of luxury in the Pacific Islands as a birthday present to myself. I didn’t have to look too far as a great deal popped up in my inbox from #LuxuryEscapes . I had heard great things about how green and beautiful the islands are and the friendliness of the people so having just cleared my credit card bill I jumped straight on it and booked ten days in Rorotonga in late July 2019.
Where are The Cook Islands ?
The Cook Islands are located in the South Pacific Ocean, northeast of New Zealand, between French Polynesia and American Samoa. The islands are spread over 2,200,000 km2 of ocean and are divided into two distinct groups: the Southern Cook Islands and the Northern Cook Islands.
Rarotonga
The first thing which strikes me about Rarotonga is how green it is. Volcanic peaks, ridges and rain-forest dominate the interior of Rorotonga and there is a 32 kilometer, round-the-island road which links the beaches, coastal lagoon and reefs and provides easy access for scuba diving and snorkeling. A regular bus service runs both clockwise and anticlockwise making it really easy to get around. The cost is $5 single or $8 for an adult return journey and multi-day passes and family passes are also available. All tickets can be bought from the driver although make sure that you have cash with you as credit cards are not accepted. The buses are a great way to see the island and I would highly recommend that you take a trip on one if you visit Rarotonga.
If you are feeling a little more adventurous many places hire pushbikes and as the road is very flat even fair-weather cyclists could get around the island in a day. For the more adventurous there is a rugged hiking trail called The Cross-Island Track which takes you to Te Rua Manga peak, or "The Needle." as it is commonly known, which is the highest point of the island at 650 metres above sea level. And of course there is also Car and Motorbike hire available at various locations around the island.
Getting to Rarotonga from Sydney
Rarotonga is the largest and most frequently visited of the Cook Islands and also the capital. It has an International airport with frequent flights to New Zealand, which makes it very popular holiday destination with New Zealanders (or Kiwis as they are often called). Air New Zealand operates direct flights from Sydney however flights are only once a week on a Friday, all other flights go via Auckland. Flights cross the International Date Line which can be a little confusing as you gain a day on the way there which means your arrival time is earlier on the same day that you departed. It takes a bit of getting used to and everyone is initially confused as to which day it is but you soon adjust to it until of course you fly back and lose a day . It’s totally weird!!
Pacific Resort Rarotonga
My accommodation is at Pacific Resort Rarotonga which is about twenty minutes from the airport and located on Muri Lagoon. I have upgraded to a beachfront room with a fabulous view across the lagoon and close to the restaurant and bar. My package with Luxury Escapes includes a full cooked breakfast and a two-course evening meal and after a long trip I am feeling hungry and looking forward to dinner.
The staff at Pacific Resort are so friendly and welcoming. From the reception team, to the gardeners and the beach club crew everyone I have met is happy and smiling and the dining and bar team are the same. . As I walk into the dining room I am greeted warmly and shown to my table. The beach restaurant is closed as it is quite windy and raining so everyone takes dinner in the main restaurant where breakfast is normally eaten. An island girl is sitting in the corner playing the guitar and singing with a beautiful jazz type voice. It creates a lovely atmosphere.
The menu offers a good choice of entrees, main courses and desserts. I order Ika Mata for my entree. Ika Mata is a Cook Islands special comprising raw tuna, coconut cream, chopped cucumber, red onion, red pepper and lime juice. I would highly recommend it if you like raw fish. There is something about the look of it which reminds me of the 1970’s favourite Prawn Cocktail although of course the taste is nothing like it. My choice of main course is Monkfish cooked medium rare with mash and salad. Both are absolutely delicious and I order a chilled glass of Rose to accompany my dinner. It’s been a tiring few days so I head to bed early looking forward to my time here in Rarotonga.
Relaxing at the resort - Island Time
Sunday morning the sun is finally trying to break through the grey clouds which have stayed stubbornly overhead for the past two days. I always leave my curtains open wherever I am in the world as I prefer to be woken naturally by the sun rather than have my slumbers broken by an alarm. How strange that when I was working full time I had to snooze my alarm numerous times before I got out of bed whereas I now wake up early every morning excited for the day ahead.
This morning I put on my yoga gear, unroll my yoga mat and do my morning practice on my balcony overlooking the ocean. The roof is quite low in places and I knock my hands a few times until I find the perfect spot to perform my routine. It’s only a twenty minute practice with a five minute meditation but I am now all set for the day. I chill for a few minutes longer watching people strolling along the beach before I change and head to breakfast.
Sunday Church Service
The hotel receptionist has suggested that we might like to join the local parishioners for a Sunday church service. She tells us that visitors are always welcome and that the singing in the Cook Islands churches is beautiful and an experience not to miss. I was initially undecided about whether to go but the morning I arrived in Rarotonga I received a message that an old friend of mine had passed away. Somehow, although I’m not particularly religious it just feels right to go to church.
A bright green taxi bus picks us up at the hotel at 9.30am to take us to Ebenezera Church for the 10am service. We arrive at a beautiful white painted church where we are greeted by members of the congregation who take us inside and show us to the pews. Everyone is dressed smartly, the woman are in bright coloured dresses with straw huts decked in flowers and the men are in their best suits.
After a few minutes, the service starts and the minister welcomes everyone and makes a special mention of all of the visitors. He explains that the service will be conducted in both the island language and English and invites us to join in. Then it’s time for the first hymn and the sound of beautiful voices fills the church. The singing is in perfect harmony and is incredibly joyous and very uplifting. The perfect antidote to the sad news I received two days ago.
The service lasts about an hour and the warmth of the welcome stays with us even after we have left the church. I would highly recommend a visit to a Sunday church service, it doesn’t matter if you are religious or not, the experience is something to treasure.
Why are the Cook Islands so special?
There are many reasons to come to the Cook Islands. One of course is the weather which never gets much below 20 degrees even in the winter which is when I chose to visit. The beaches are fabulous, the land is very green and lush and I’ve been greeted by friendly, smiling faces and a very warm welcome by everyone I’ve met.
The Island authorities are keen to ensure that nothing spoils the natural beauty so twice a year the health department runs a programme to clear all weeds and dense undergrowth to keep rats and mosquitoes away. Each islander is responsible for clearing their own land and would face a fine if they didn’t comply. This minimises the risk of tropical diseases and of course makes for a much more pleasant life.
The Cook Islanders are determined to maintain the beauty and integrity of the islands for their families and for generations to come. All land in The Cook Islands is family owned and cannot be bought or sold outside of the family although it to can be leased i.e. to resorts. Building heights must not be higher than the coconut palms which ensures the landscape is not destroyed by high rise development. Generations of the same family are buried on their land ensuring that land is tied back into family and passed down from generation to generation. So the only way for a visitor to live here would be to rent accommodation.
If you are looking for a chilled out lifestyle this would be a great fabulous place to retire or to have a holiday home. Of course foreigners cannot buy property but there is always the option of renting and the idea of living in a little house on the beach and waking to the sound of the waves lapping on the shore feels like paradise to me ………
